Pack of 4 – NGK 93501 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs (IFR5E11) | OEM Performance for Honda, Acura, Subaru, Lexus

Pack of 4 – NGK 93501 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs (IFR5E11) | OEM Performance for Honda, Acura, Subaru, Lexus

$27.99
$27.99 $33.99
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Pack of 4 – NGK 93501 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs (IFR5E11) | OEM Performance for Honda, Acura, Subaru, Lexus
  • Pack of 4 – NGK 93501 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs (IFR5E11) | OEM Performance for Honda, Acura, Subaru, Lexus
  • Pack of 4 – NGK 93501 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs (IFR5E11) | OEM Performance for Honda, Acura, Subaru, Lexus
  • Pack of 4 – NGK 93501 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs (IFR5E11) | OEM Performance for Honda, Acura, Subaru, Lexus
  • Pack of 4 – NGK 93501 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs (IFR5E11) | OEM Performance for Honda, Acura, Subaru, Lexus
Pack of 4 – NGK 93501 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs (IFR5E11) | OEM Performance for Honda, Acura, Subaru, Lexus

Pack of 4 – NGK 93501 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs (IFR5E11) | OEM Performance for Honda, Acura, Subaru, Lexus

$27.99
$27.99 $33.99

Pack of 4 – NGK 93501 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs (IFR5E11) – Ultimate Ignition Performance & Long Life

Upgrade your engine’s ignition system with this 4-pack of NGK 93501 Laser Iridium spark plugs (IFR5E11) – the top choice for OEM reliability, long life, and maximum fuel efficiency. Built with laser-welded Iridium center electrodes, these spark plugs deliver consistent combustion, better throttle response, and extended service intervals up to 100,000 miles.

Ideal for a wide range of Honda, Acura, Lexus, Subaru, and other import vehicles, NGK’s Laser Iridium series is trusted by manufacturers and professional mechanics alike.


Key Features:

  • Pack of 4 OEM-Grade Spark Plugs – Perfect for full 4-cylinder tune-ups
  • Laser-Welded Iridium Tip – For superior ignition stability and longevity
  • Platinum Ground Electrode – Enhances durability under high-stress conditions
  • Trivalent Metal Plating – Corrosion-resistant with superior anti-seize properties
  • Better Fuel Economy & Emissions – Improves cold starts and reduces misfires


Vehicle Compatibility:

Commonly used in the following vehicles (always confirm with your VIN or owner’s manual):

  • Honda Accord / Civic / CR-V / Element / Odyssey (various 2.4L / 3.0L engines)
  • Acura TL / TSX / MDX / RSX / RDX
  • Subaru Forester / Legacy / Outback / Impreza
  • Lexus ES300 / RX300 / IS300
  • Toyota Avalon / Camry (select models)
  • Also compatible with many other 2.0L – 3.5L engines

 

Cross Reference Part Numbers:

Replaces or equivalent to:

  • NGK 93501
  • NGK IFR5E11
  • Denso 5304 (SK20R11)
  • Bosch 9602
  • Champion 9305
  • Autolite XP3923
  • Motorcraft SP-493
  • ACDelco 41-101


Why Buy From Us?

✔️ Brand New – Ships from U.S. Warehouse

✔️ Pack of 4 – Ideal for Complete Tune-Up

✔️ OEM Trusted Brand – NGK Quality

✔️ Fast Shipping & Easy Returns

✔️ Satisfaction Guaranteed

 

❓ FAQ

Q: Which specific vehicle models, engine sizes, and factory configurations are these NGK spark plugs designed for?

A: This 4-pack of NGK 93501 (IFR5E11) Laser Iridium spark plugs is engineered for a large range of import passenger cars and SUVs, primarily focusing on 4-cylinder engine tune-ups or partial sets for V6 configurations. They provide an exact factory-grade fit for platforms like the Honda Accord, Civic, CR-V, and Element (2.4L K-Series engines), Acura TSX and RSX, Subaru Forester, Legacy, and Outback (2.5L EJ/FB engines), as well as select Lexus IS300/RX300 and Toyota Camry/Avalon models running 2.0L to 3.5L displacements.

Q: What unique advantage does the Laser Iridium tip and Platinum ground configuration provide over standard plugs?

A: The NGK Laser Iridium series features a dual-precious-metal construction designed for maximum service life, often reaching up to 100,000 miles. The center electrode features a micro-thin, laser-welded Iridium tip that requires less electrical voltage to spark, which drastically improves cold starts and throttle response. To match this durability, the ground electrode features a Platinum chip welded to the tip to resist electrical and chemical wear under intense combustion chamber heat. This dual-metal layout ensures the spark gap remains precise over thousands of heat cycles, preventing performance drop-offs, rough idling, or misfires.

Q: What are the exact step-by-step instructions for replacing spark plugs safely without stripping engine threads?

A: Changing spark plugs on an aluminum engine cylinder head requires a cold engine block and exact handling to protect the sensitive ignition components and avoid cross-threading:

1Cool the engine and clear debris

Allow the engine to sit for a few hours

1.Cool the engine and clear debris: Allow the engine to sit for a few hours.Ensure the vehicle is parked on a flat surface and the engine is completely cold to the touch. Pop the hood and remove any plastic cosmetic engine covers. Before pulling any ignition components, use a can of compressed air or a shop vac to blow away any loose dirt, dust, or sand around the ignition coils so nothing falls into the cylinder bore when the plug is pulled.

2Remove the ignition coil packs

Mark or track each cylinder order

2.Remove the ignition coil packs: Mark or track each cylinder order.Disconnect the electrical wiring clip from the top of the first cylinder's ignition coil pack. Unscrew the small retaining bolt holding the coil pack to the valve cover. Gently twist the coil pack back and forth while pulling upward to slide the rubber boot out of the deep spark plug well. Inspect the boot for any signs of engine oil or tearing.

3Unscrew and extract the old spark plug

Turn counterclockwise to loosen

3.Unscrew and extract the old spark plug: Turn counterclockwise to loosen.Attach a 5/8-inch spark plug socket—which features an internal rubber grommet or magnet to hold the plug—to a long extension bar and ratchet. Lower it into the well until it seats firmly over the spark plug hex. Keeping the socket straight to avoid cracking the ceramic porcelain insulator, turn the ratchet counterclockwise to unseat and back the old plug completely out of the cylinder head.

4Check the gap and prepare the new NGK plug

Verify the factory gap specification before installing

4.Check the gap and prepare the new NGK plug: Verify the factory gap specification before installing.Take a new NGK 93501 plug out of its box. While these come pre-gapped from the factory, verify the gap matches your specific car's emission label using a wire coin gap tool (the "11" in IFR5E11 indicates a standard factory gap of 1.1 mm or 0.044 inches). Do not drop the plug into the open hole. Instead, press the ceramic top securely into your spark plug socket so it stays gripped.

5Thread the new spark plug by hand

Never use a power tool or ratchet to start threads

5.Thread the new spark plug by hand: Never use a power tool or ratchet to start threads.Lower the spark plug tool into the cylinder well. Using only your hand on the extension bar, slowly turn the plug clockwise. It should spin in smoothly with zero resistance for several turns. If it binds up immediately, back it out and re-align it to avoid stripping the aluminum threads on your cylinder head. Hand-tighten until the plug washer seats against the bottom.

6Torque to spec and rebuild the ignition lane

Re-install the ignition loop components

6.Torque to spec and rebuild the ignition lane: Re-install the ignition loop components.Using a torque wrench, tighten the spark plug down to the factory specified torque setting (typically 13 to 18 lb-ft for aluminum heads with flat gasket washers, or turn an additional 1/2 turn past hand-snug if a torque wrench is unavailable). Slide the ignition coil pack back down over the plug terminal, bolt it down, and snap the wiring harness back into place. Repeat the cycle for the remaining cylinders.

1.Cool the engine and clear debris:Allow the engine to sit for a few hours.

Ensure the vehicle is parked on a flat surface and the engine is completely cold to the touch. Pop the hood and remove any plastic cosmetic engine covers. Before pulling any ignition components, use a can of compressed air or a shop vac to blow away any loose dirt, dust, or sand around the ignition coils so nothing falls into the cylinder bore when the plug is pulled.
2.Remove the ignition coil packs:Mark or track each cylinder order.

Disconnect the electrical wiring clip from the top of the first cylinder's ignition coil pack. Unscrew the small retaining bolt holding the coil pack to the valve cover. Gently twist the coil pack back and forth while pulling upward to slide the rubber boot out of the deep spark plug well. Inspect the boot for any signs of engine oil or tearing.
3.Unscrew and extract the old spark plug:Turn counterclockwise to loosen.

Attach a 5/8-inch spark plug socket—which features an internal rubber grommet or magnet to hold the plug—to a long extension bar and ratchet. Lower it into the well until it seats firmly over the spark plug hex. Keeping the socket straight to avoid cracking the ceramic porcelain insulator, turn the ratchet counterclockwise to unseat and back the old plug completely out of the cylinder head.
4.Check the gap and prepare the new NGK plug:Verify the factory gap specification before installing.

Take a new NGK 93501 plug out of its box. While these come pre-gapped from the factory, verify the gap matches your specific car's emission label using a wire coin gap tool (the "11" in IFR5E11 indicates a standard factory gap of 1.1 mm or 0.044 inches). Do not drop the plug into the open hole. Instead, press the ceramic top securely into your spark plug socket so it stays gripped.
5.Thread the new spark plug by hand:Never use a power tool or ratchet to start threads.

Lower the spark plug tool into the cylinder well. Using only your hand on the extension bar, slowly turn the plug clockwise. It should spin in smoothly with zero resistance for several turns. If it binds up immediately, back it out and re-align it to avoid stripping the aluminum threads on your cylinder head. Hand-tighten until the plug washer seats against the bottom.
6.Torque to spec and rebuild the ignition lane:Re-install the ignition loop components.

Using a torque wrench, tighten the spark plug down to the factory specified torque setting (typically 13 to 18 lb-ft for aluminum heads with flat gasket washers, or turn an additional 1/2 turn past hand-snug if a torque wrench is unavailable). Slide the ignition coil pack back down over the plug terminal, bolt it down, and snap the wiring harness back into place. Repeat the cycle for the remaining cylinders.

 

1
Cool the engine and clear debris
Allow the engine to sit for a few hours
1.Cool the engine and clear debris:Allow the engine to sit for a few hours.

Ensure the vehicle is parked on a flat surface and the engine is completely cold to the touch. Pop the hood and remove any plastic cosmetic engine covers. Before pulling any ignition components, use a can of compressed air or a shop vac to blow away any loose dirt, dust, or sand around the ignition coils so nothing falls into the cylinder bore when the plug is pulled.
2
Remove the ignition coil packs
Mark or track each cylinder order
2.Remove the ignition coil packs:Mark or track each cylinder order.

Disconnect the electrical wiring clip from the top of the first cylinder's ignition coil pack. Unscrew the small retaining bolt holding the coil pack to the valve cover. Gently twist the coil pack back and forth while pulling upward to slide the rubber boot out of the deep spark plug well. Inspect the boot for any signs of engine oil or tearing.
3
Unscrew and extract the old spark plug
Turn counterclockwise to loosen
3.Unscrew and extract the old spark plug:Turn counterclockwise to loosen.

Attach a 5/8-inch spark plug socket—which features an internal rubber grommet or magnet to hold the plug—to a long extension bar and ratchet. Lower it into the well until it seats firmly over the spark plug hex. Keeping the socket straight to avoid cracking the ceramic porcelain insulator, turn the ratchet counterclockwise to unseat and back the old plug completely out of the cylinder head.
4
Check the gap and prepare the new NGK plug
Verify the factory gap specification before installing
4.Check the gap and prepare the new NGK plug:Verify the factory gap specification before installing.

Take a new NGK 93501 plug out of its box. While these come pre-gapped from the factory, verify the gap matches your specific car's emission label using a wire coin gap tool (the "11" in IFR5E11 indicates a standard factory gap of 1.1 mm or 0.044 inches). Do not drop the plug into the open hole. Instead, press the ceramic top securely into your spark plug socket so it stays gripped.
5
Thread the new spark plug by hand
Never use a power tool or ratchet to start threads
5.Thread the new spark plug by hand:Never use a power tool or ratchet to start threads.

Lower the spark plug tool into the cylinder well. Using only your hand on the extension bar, slowly turn the plug clockwise. It should spin in smoothly with zero resistance for several turns. If it binds up immediately, back it out and re-align it to avoid stripping the aluminum threads on your cylinder head. Hand-tighten until the plug washer seats against the bottom.
6
Torque to spec and rebuild the ignition lane
Re-install the ignition loop components
6.Torque to spec and rebuild the ignition lane:Re-install the ignition loop components.

Using a torque wrench, tighten the spark plug down to the factory specified torque setting (typically 13 to 18 lb-ft for aluminum heads with flat gasket washers, or turn an additional 1/2 turn past hand-snug if a torque wrench is unavailable). Slide the ignition coil pack back down over the plug terminal, bolt it down, and snap the wiring harness back into place. Repeat the cycle for the remaining cylinders.

 

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